Reworked Coat: tailored fitNovember 9, 2015
The chilly weather has arrived, and a few of us needed to get our coat situations in order! There are a few coats moving through my work room, fixed for individual fit and authentic self expression.
This one is an example of a beautiful vintage coat, from 1969 i believe, that was found at the back of Palmira’s mother’s closet. The materials and construction are impeccable (as it was made and bought in Italy! Ohh la la), and although the size didn’t fit Palmira right, she was hoping to salvage this quality garment and continue it’s use in her family. I wish I had gotten a before picture, it used to be a straight cut, but you can trust me when I say she was swimming in it. The shoulders were too wide for her petite frame, and she prefers a more accentuated waistline.
Since she likes the look of a belt, I offered the idea of a sewn-in band on the sides, which I constructed from a bit of fabric taken from the hem. I took a bunch of fabric out of almost all the seams in the sleeves, back princess lines, and sides, but left the front seam lines alone, because I didn’t want to mess with the button closure or the pockets in the front princess seams. Instead of moving the armholes in to get the shoulders in the right spot, I just made a tiny pleat in the shoulder seam, which is hidden by the large, lovely collar. I did my best to maintain the integrity of the garment, and actually learned a lot in taking it apart about how a quality coat should be made. So many hand stitched details are hidden between the lining and shell fabric that just make a coat sit properly!
I loved working on this project. I love examining vintage clothes up close, and I love keeping a loved garment in use, to pass down through the family. I also love updating clothes to better reflect proper fit and self-expression.